Sometimes our adventures seem to be chosen for us, determined by such things as the timing for returning a rental car. Looking at where we were (Pau) and where we needed to be by 3:00 in the afternoon (Bordeaux Airport), we figured that St. Émilion would offer the chance of a decent lunch and a walk about an interesting town. We didn’t anticipate the quite extraordinary drive along narrow country roads twisting through the countless vineyards of the region. It was beautiful, poppies along the side of the road, vines just leafing out, and picturesque villages and buildings along the way. Too bad there was absolutely nowhere to stop for a photo.
The shocker for us was just how charming a town it is. We should have believed the Michelin Green Guide (2 stars). The downside of that acclaim is that it was loaded with tourists (like us, but in large groups). Parts of town also feel like a wine bazaar, with one shop after another mostly representing individual vineyards. Even our restaurant (so-so, with an overbearing owner/waiter and an undisclosed cash only policy) was owned and run by a vineyard. Make no mistake, however, it remains a town worth visiting and those 2 stars are merited.
Église Monolithe, St. Émilion
That need to return our car kept us from enjoying a tour of the largest sanctuary in Europe carved out of rock, taking advantage of some existing natural caverns and grottoes, that was transformed between the 8th and 12th centuries.
As we got on our way, we were glad there had been a car park outside the ramparts.