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Construction in the Greek (Ptolemaic) and Roman periods introduced solid walls in between the columns of temples to provide more space for communication, for performance, for what the state had to say, as this was religious and political information and it was religion that provided legitimacy to the crown and confirmed the status of the Pharaoh as a god incarnate. As rulers coming from foreign lands, the Greeks and Romans needed plenty of room to create their spin on things. Although the Dendera complex had its beginnings in the Middle Kingdom, what has survived is overwhelmingly from Greek and Roman times.

The principle surviving part of the complex is the Temple of Hathor (above). The goddess Hathor, taking the form of a cow, was both the nursemaid and the wife of Horus (the god who looks like a falcon). Horus is the son of Isis and Osiris and his story is central to Egyptian religion, as his task is to avenge the death of his father Osiris at the hands of his uncle Seth. As you may recall (🤔), Isis searched the world for the dismembered body of her husband, reassembled him (adding a critically missing member by fashioning it out of gold), and conceived Horus before Osiris took his place as the god of the underworld. Horus was then entrusted to Hathor to succor and raise. She then became his wife. Phew.

Her temple is remarkably well preserved although, in fairness, it’s only two millennia old . . .

and has benefited from a recent thorough cleaning.

Every available surface is densely covered with magnificent engravings, paintings and hieroglyphics, including an incredibly high ceiling. (Photos courtesy of a high powered zoom lens.)

Secret passageways and chambers abound, facilitating the movement of priests throughout the complex.

Exterior surfaces are also intricately covered with images and text, but in greater relief.

In addition to being a god of music and laughter, Bes was a household protector, especially of pregnant women (and childbirth) and of children. A jolly old fellow was he.

We left our ship at 4:30 a.m. to take a small motor launch across the Nile to the west bank and a fleet of vans to ferry us to a large field filled with balloons and bustling ground crews readying them for flight.

Karnak Temple

Karnak Temple is the #2 tourist destination in Egypt, after the pyramids at Giza.

Roughly 30 Pharaohs contributed to the overwhelming nature of Karnak Temple, an immense complex of buildings and themes constructed from the Middle Kingdom (2000-1700 BC) through to the Ptolemaic Age (305-30 BC, put to a close with the fall of Cleopatra).

Karnak is connected to the other major temple complex in Luxor (Luxor Temple) by a mile and a half long causeway lined with sphinxes. Every year a procession would alternately go from one to the other so that the resident gods could visit.

134 massive columns carved in place, 12 nearly 70 feet tall with a diameter of 10 feet, the remainder half that height and not just carved, but elaborately, densely, intricately carved with the stories of gods and men told with both images and a rich language we’ve been able to unravel thanks to that Ptolemaic Age when Greek came to Egypt. The hieroglyphic writing system, by the way, can be read left to right, right to left, or top to bottom, depending on the overall design of the message (the esthetics being important, thank you). The ovals that have a line at one end always enclose a royal name and are called a cartouche.

The ancient Egyptians were manipulators of light, creating openings to shine light on specific ornamentations at specific times. The color you see in the ornamentation, by the way, is all original from the time it was created. Obviously, it has persisted better when protected from the light.

When Emperor Constantine adopted Christianity as the state religion, “pagan” temples were ordered closed and Christian churches were established in some of them, including here at Karnak.

Luxor Temple

Yes, down at the other end of that long sphinx-lined causeway, is Luxor Temple. Equally imposing, if a little smaller in overall footprint to the enormous Karnak Temple complex. It was started around 1400 BC and was dedicated to Egyptian kingship. This is where Pharaohs liked to be crowned. The missing obelisk (alas, destroying the symmetry) is in Paris and those statutes in pink and black granite are all Ramses II, the Ramses.

In 395 the Romans established a church here in Luxor Temple. Upon the Arab conquest, the church was converted to a still-active Mosque in 640, so that the building has been in continuous use as a place of worship for 3400 years.

The climate of Egypt has changed from that of a desert cleaved by a narrow band of green to become significantly more humid with increasingly high ground water. This is due to the damming of the Nile at Aswan with the Aswan High Dam and the magnitude of Lake Nasser behind it. This is wreaking havoc on the ornamentation of the ancient Egyptian monuments which is increasingly sloughing off due to the dampness creeping into the stone on which it is affixed. One initiative to try to help is by the University of Chicago which has focused its researchers on tracing the outlines of images which are disappearing.

More than just awe inspiring structures set on a desolate plain, Egyptian pyramids are deeply religious statements about death and a belief in resurrection and an afterlife. Tombs were always on the west bank of the Nile because that’s where the afterworld could be found and entrances always faced north so that their owners’ Ka (spirit) could more easily find their physical remains and the grave goods left to support and sustain them. But, enough of that for now.

Saqqara

The first true pyramid was designed by one of the geniuses of the ancient world, Imhotep, in the 27th century BC. (He was the chief minister of King Djoser, as well as an architect, physician, judge, and high priest of Ra (the Sun God), and was ultimately deified as a god of medicine and healing 2,000 years after his death.)

Imhotep introduced the construction of tombs out of stone, rather than organic materials such as reed, wood and mud brick. He then fashioned the stone to mimic some of these materials. But, his biggest claim to fame was successfully building the first true pyramid.

Some pyramids haven’t held up as well as others, given compromises that were sometimes made in their construction. However, their subterranean parts may have fared better.

Our university trained Egyptologist was not permitted to guide in the tomb of Unas beneath his pyramid because of concerns about moisture and light adversely affecting the preservation of the tomb writings. However, as was often the case, a local with a flashlight stationed himself within the inner chamber and provided his own version of history in the hope of receiving tips.

The interior of the mastaba of Princess Idut was somewhat better controlled, although it was shoulder to shoulder in narrow passageways. When she went before him into death, her bereaved father (King Teti(?)) had her tomb decorated with what she enjoyed most in life, including a good haunch of meat.

Giza Plateau

It’s a big place, Giza, and it’s almost impossible to convey just how massive the great pyramids actually are since we experience them from the respectful distance of a photograph that’s able to contain them. But, do try to imagine them still clad as they were in gleaming white stone (before all the pillaging over thousands of years for construction materials).

Giza is a large and complicated city for the dead, far more than simply three big pyramids looming over the scene. Each of the pyramids has a whole complex associated with it, including a causeway and a harbor to receive materials and, of course, the deceased Pharoah from a canal paralleling the Nile. A very important part of that complex is the mortuary temple where the body of the deceased was prepared. In addition to the big three, there are other smaller pyramids at Giza. There are also many many mastabas, some very substantial, in crowded rows all around the plateau under which those close to the Pharoahs were interred with the same care for the proper handling of the body, proper furnishing with what will be needed for the afterlife, and proper tributes and guidance adorning every available surface.

Not to be outdone by the greater size of his father’s pyramid, Khafre added the now familiar great sphinx in front of his own complex by having a very large rock carved to his specifications. Khufu, of course, built the first and largest of the three large pyramids, having watched his own father (Sneferu) build three “normal” sized ones. Menkaure was the grandson of Khufu. The Pharoahs then seem to have gotten pyramid building out of their systems.

Egyptians refer to their capital as the Mother of the World and, with a population of over 20 million people, Greater Cairo is the largest urban area in both the Arab world and Africa. Since its founding in the 10th century by the Fatimid Dynasty it has been enormously influential in Islamic thought and culture and today remains a major force, including as the base for the dominant film and music industries of the Arab world.

Saladin Citadel

The Citadel boasts fortifications built by Saladin in the 12th century on Mokattam Hill in central Cairo overlooking both the modern city and the area from which the ancient Egyptians quarried stone for the pyramids and other building projects in pre-Cairo days, as Giza is not far away. Egypt was ruled from the Citadel for 700 years.

Muhammad Ali was an Albanian Ottoman and the founder of modern Egypt. After he helped expel the French from Egypt in the beginning of the 19th century, the Sultan made him Viceroy of Egypt. Through a series of brilliant military and diplomatic moves, he succeeded in establishing himself as the founder of a hereditary dynasty that ruled Egypt until 1952 and the rebellion against monarchic rule that brought Gamal Abdel Nasser to power (following the brief Naguib Presidency, providing the first Egyptian rulers of Egypt in 2,000 years). To free Egypt from Ottoman rule, Ali destroyed the Mamluks, remade Egyptian society, created new revenue streams for the state, and created a professional bureaucracy and a modern army. He also built this beautiful mosque.

The Coptic Quarter

Before the founding of the city, before the Arab invasion and conquest of the 7th century, there were sizable settlements in what is now known as Cairo. Among them, a city significant enough for its Bishop Cyrus to participate in the Second Council of Ephesus in 449. Christians were well established in Egypt, thanks only in part to the sponsorship of Rome, and continue today to comprise about 10% of the population.

There is a cave underneath Abu Serga, one of the oldest churches in Egypt (4th century), that is said to have sheltered the Holy Family when they fled to Egypt with the midwife who witnessed the birth, tracing a legendary path through ancient Heliopolis. All this being new to us, we were reminded of our Jerusalem guide’s reminder that it’s important to honor both fact and faith.

With its beginnings in the 3rd century, the Hanging Church is also one of the oldest in Egypt. The existing structure likely dates from the late 7th century and was built over a gatehouse of the Babylon Fortress whose origins are variously dated to either the 19th or 16th century BC. The Church became the seat of the Patriarchate when it moved from Alexandria in the 11th century, so it is the residence of the Coptic Pope.

On the left, above, you can see walls of the Babylon Fortress gatehouse over which the Church was built, as well as the considerable height at which it is perched. The photo on the right shows a portion of the ceiling in the Church that is designed as the interior of Noah’s Ark.

The Coptic Museum houses the world’s largest collection of Coptic art and artifacts, the holdings of the Egyptian Museum having been transferred to it upon it becoming a state museum in 1931. Mashrabiyas, a classic feature of grand old houses in Cairo, began as a feature of Coptic churches. They allow for the passive cooling of air and also provide privacy from the street, allowing you to observe the world unobserved.

We were unable to visit Ben Ezra Synagogue (from the 9th century) because the congregation has closed it for repairs. Once the home to a large Jewish community, most have left Egypt for Israel or the United States.

Food!

With very little “free time” from our touring, we took advantage of the opportunity to strike out on our own and find a restaurant recommended by our guide (Le Pasha 1901). It’s on an island in the Nile – Zamalek – and was within walking distance of our hotel. So, we set out to master wading through Cairo traffic while crossing the street. We paid someone $1 to get us from one side of the road going over a bridge to the other and from that gained the confidence to just stick out our arms and move through it all (it was money well spent). We thoroughly enjoyed the restaurant and the food and were befriended by an Egyptian-American with helpful menu recommendations.

The Egyptian Museum

Bulging with artifacts, the Egyptian Museum is reason enough to go to Egypt. Although many masterpieces of the ancient world are housed in western museums, there’s a staggering amount right here in Cairo. Plus, the Egyptian Museum has what the west doesn’t have in its collections – cabinets full of the items of day to day life from thousands of years ago.

The world’s first historical document, the museum has located a reproduction of the Narmer Palette near the original so that blind people may experience it. Happily, that also makes it a lot easier to share with you in a photograph because it’s not under glass. From the 31st century BC, the palette (a ceremonial object for grinding the cosmetics used to freshen up statues of deities, maybe in the area formed by the entwined necks) commemorates the unification of Lower (Northern) and Upper (Southern) Egypt and the power and prestige of King Narmer. This is a very early example of the conventions of Egyptian art having developed and contains some of the earliest known hieroglyphic inscriptions. And, yes, the original is in remarkably good condition, especially for an object that’s 5,000 years old.

The cycles of life and death, facing final judgment after death, and the promise of resurrection were of tremendous concern to the ancient Egyptians. Here, the heart of the deceased is weighed against a feather.

The inventor of monotheism, Akhenaton was obsessed with the oneness of creation and of being, making this gender-fluid likeness of himself which he commissioned intriguing as a possible attempt to portray himself as an embodiment of the oneness of male and female. He was, of course, intensely unpopular with the priestly class and his successors and his innovations did not outlive him.

The written record from ancient Egypt is extensive and not all of it is on the walls and ceilings of temples and tombs or on papyrus scrolls left for the edification of the deceased. People would also write on random bits of pottery or stone and write of their day to day lives and what was important to them. This extensive written record is what has brought ancient Egypt to life, while other civilizations have been left unable to speak to us.

It all goes back to Abraham, the Patriarch common to all “Peoples of the Book,” revered in Judaism, Islam, and Christianity, all of which lay claim to Jerusalem as the geographic heart and soul of their faith and over which they have fought each other for millenia.

The “Rock” of the Dome of the Rock is the one upon which Abraham was prepared to sacrifice Isaac, where God created the world and formed Adam, and Mohammed began his Night Journey and ascended to heaven.

Across the breadth of the photo, above, from the southeastern corner of the city walls on the left across to where there are some arches to the right of the Dome of the Rock and including the buildings at the southwestern corner, lies Temple Mount where Solomon built the Jewish First Temple which was destroyed by the Babylonians, rebuilt by Herod the Great, then destroyed again in 70 AD. Caliph Abd el-Malik built the Dome of the Rock shrine in 691.

Debris from the destruction of the Second Temple remains along the base of a portion of the Western Wall (essentially a retaining wall for the Temple Mount), left above. Praying along the northern portion of the Western Wall is the closest observant Jews can get to the Holy of Holies, the spiritual junction of Heaven and Earth by the Foundation Stone (aka, the Rock at the heart of the Dome of the Rock), and the most sacred spot in Judaism coincident with a profoundly sacred spot for Muslims, as well as Christians.

The oldest extant gate of Jerusalem, the Eastern Gate was sealed by Suleiman the Magnificent in 1541 in order to prevent the Jewish Messiah from entering Jerusalem (according to some sources). The Muslim cemetery directly in front of the gate is also reported to have been located there to thwart the same entry. The Jewish cemetery facing the gate from the slopes of the Mount of Olives is enormous, with over 70,000 souls interred there over several thousand years. Islamic belief follows that of Christianity concerning a Day of Judgment when all will be judged and consigned to their eternal fate, following a Day of Resurrection (in fact, its one of their six articles of faith). This is generally not a part of Jewish belief.

One of the most important sites in Christianity is, of course, Bethlehem, as the birthplace of Jesus. Getting there from Jerusalem involves a non-border border crossing into territory seized by Israel, but which is still contained by a formidable border wall. Our Israeli guide lamented that even though these territories were within Israel’s “international borders,” he could not freely go there. We were met by a Palestinian Christian guide for this leg of the journey.

Since at least the Second century, a specific site has been associated with the birth of Jesus. It is one of the many caves beneath the town. Justinian erected the Church of the Nativity over it in the Sixth Century over the remains of a church erected by Constantine in the Fourth Century. It was then renovated by the Crusaders in the Eleventh Century. A star marks where tradition has it that the birth of Jesus occurred and the location of the manger is mere steps away. The Church has been controlled by the Greek Orthodox, Roman Catholic and Armenian Apostolic churches for 250 years under the terms of an agreement to keep peace among the Christians, called the Status Quo.

Known as the Door of Humility, the main entrance of the Church of the Nativity was reduced in size to preclude those overeager Crusaders from entering the church on horseback.

There are truly ancient olive trees growing in the Garden of Gethsemane, some nearly a thousand years old, making plausible the claim that their ancestors provided shelter for Jesus in his time of doubt and torment.

As is true throughout Jerusalem, rival denominations have erected rival churches each putting forth competing narratives of the Christian story as matters of faith. There are four different locations claimed as the place where Jesus prayed on the night he was betrayed. As our guide put it, these are not matters of fact, but of faith.

Administered by the White Fathers (Missionaries of Africa), the Church of St. Anne and the site of the Pools of Bethesda were presented by Sultan Abdulmecid I to Napoleon III in 1856. When we visited, a group of American tourists were standing in a circle singing hymns in the church. (Remember, any photo can be enlarged by clicking on it.)

There are 14 Stations of the Cross along the Via Dolorosa, the last five of which are inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. It’s not a street, but a route through the Muslim Quarter and ending in the Christian Quarter. An effort to follow the last steps of Jesus began in the Byzantine era and had many different interpretations which began to take clearer shape in the fourteenth century when the Pope put the Franciscans in charge of the Holy Land. Even though the most recent archeological evidence points to a different route, the current route is now well established.

When Constantine converted to Christianity, he dispatched his mother Helena to Jerusalem to find Christ’s tomb. She was led to the site of a Temple to Jupiter/Venus which had been erected over a cave that had been filled in to create a level area on which to build. Constantine ordered the Temple demolished and the church to be built in 326 and it was consecrated in 335. Since that time, the church has gone through long and complicated series of destruction/protection by Muslim rulers, rebuilding by Christian rulers, contests for primacy, Crusades, and the Status Quo. The property is shared by the Roman Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, Coptic Orthodox, Syriac Orthodox, and Ethiopian Orthodox. It is regarded as the site of both the site of Jesus’ tomb and of Golgotha, the site of crucifixion, and contains the final Stations of the Cross on the Via Dolorosa.

A last minute change to the itinerary brought us to Tel Aviv and a welcome respite in the city’s relatively relaxed and cosmopolitan atmosphere, making us realize that Embassy staff must have been quite disappointed when the US moved our Embassy to Jerusalem.

It’s been a while since we’ve been on the road, but we’re back,

starting at the lowest point in the Western Hemisphere

where countless years ago an enormous lake evaporated leaving

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vast salt flats and a handful of scattered pools of brackish water (more salty than the ocean) sheltering remnants of the ancient lake’s fish, now among the 26 species within the park found nowhere else on earth.

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It’s not difficult to understand how Death Valley got its name and why immigrants struggled to cross such a formidable landscape

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bordered by high rugged mountains,

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with salt encrusted streams lined with pickle weed

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and not much when it comes to finding an oasis.

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What brought people and investment to Death Valley was the prospect of wealth from the various forms of white gold: silver, lead, and that still touted laundry additive, borax, that’s the white crust on the valley floor. Of course, according to the signage, the number of mules pulling that 20 mule team train could at times vary in number. Is nothing sacred?

Santa Barbara

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Moving on to the coast, we visited Santa Barbara, starting with the Spanish Mission where the Franciscans undertook to convert the Natives (the Chumash tribe) from the late 18th century

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and the Presidio (i.e. military fort) from the same time period. The beginnings of the Presidio were apparently constructed with Chumash labor that was bargained for, although upon the arrival of the Franciscans this, as we know, changed. For those of us a little rusty on our history, the Spanish moved into what we know as California beginning in 1769 (at San Diego), the settlers revolted and declared independence as Mexico in 1821, the United States acquired (Alta) California through the Mexican-American war (loathed by Lincoln) in 1846 and California was hurriedly granted statehood in 1848 when gold provided a good reason to do so.

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Our good reason for stopping by Santa Barbara was a chance to catch up with Amanda’s Uncle Howard and his friend Madeleine, whose favorite place for a special occasion lunch and stroll through the grounds is the San Ysidro Ranch where JFK and Jackie had their honeymoon. We quickly understood why and were impressed with the number of gardeners hard at work to maintain that luxurious look (and where the food, by the way, matched the ambiance).

On the Way to LA

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When we learned that the Reagan Presidential Library was on our way to LA, we decided to stop by. Amanda has always wanted to see Air Force One, but was surprised that Reagan rode a 707 prior to the more recent upgrade to the dramatically more spacious 747s. A bonus was an FBI exhibit that trotted out all the more famous exploits and souvenirs of the G-Men (and Women).

San Juan Capistrano

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Alas, another Mission founded by the Spanish in their push north along the California coast in search of land and souls, this one founded in 1776 by the iconic Father Serra and the first foray into what is now Orange County. Although each is wholly unique and important, the stories are all much the same (see our visits to Missions in Baja California in our post of March 19, 2019). The Mission is within a short walk of a well-served train station, but Molvatu was also interested in a day trip from LA and shared our fascination with the ups and downs of history.

Los Angeles

Downtown

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We joined an LA Conservancy walking tour of Downtown LA and received a thorough grounding in both the history of Los Angeles and the difference between the Beaux-Arts style of architecture and Art Deco, being struck by just how explosive the growth of the city actually was, with oil playing the early leading role. Simply put, LA is the quintessential 20th century city with all the pluses and minuses that brings with it.

Food, Glorious Food!

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It’s also a city of countless neighborhoods, ethnic enclaves and interesting food. So, with Kyle and Molvatu, we enjoyed a different cuisine every day in Koreatown, Thaitown, Tehrangeles, and Mexican food everywhere. Our favorite was stopping by Tehrangeles and the restaurant Toranj where Fesenjoon (a stew of chicken boiled in a pomegranate and walnut sauce) was the star, followed by ice cream at Saffron & Rose (where the flavors are so exquisite we had to provide a link https://saffronrosepersianicecream.com/flavors/) in Westwood.

Museums (Free!)

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With any spare time in LA, you really need to book a visit time (needed during the pandemic) at one of the Getty museums. We chose the Getty Center and were blown away by how money and opulence oozed over everything, the setting, the access via a tram system, the sheer numbers of employees, and the collection on display (of course), all shared with you and me solely to avoid liability for criminal tax fraud. (So, maybe that’s good?)

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The other exceptional free art museum in Los Angeles is The Broad (with a long “O,” named for its founders, Eli and Edythe Broad). Their entire focus was contemporary art and started when they traded a perfectly nice piece by Vincent Van Gogh (too 19th century, perhaps) for what we felt was a mediocre (at best) piece by Robert Rauschenberg, but we certainly wouldn’t want to question the judgment of such genuinely generous people. The Broad is definitely worth a visit. Many artists in their main gallery space are represented by a lot of paintings, giving you a much better sense of them. Jim was enthralled by multiple large rooms filled with paintings by Roy Lichtenstein (just makes you feel good, folks). We even grudgingly reevaluated our dislike of Jeff Koons and his balloon sculptures when we were treated to a large room filled with his pre-balloon work (we still don’t like the big tulips and all those balloon pieces, by the way).

LACMA

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Not free, but easily worth the price of admission is the excellent Los Angeles County Museum of Art (known locally as LACMA) where we caught up with the touring Obama Portraits. The exhibit was nicely paired with an exhibit primarily from LACMA’s permanent collection of Black American Portraits from around 1800 to the present, including more portraits by Sherald and Wiley that helped to put the Obama Portraits in context.

Meanwhile, Out in Azusal

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To explore yet another art form, we ventured out towards San Gabriel Canyon to Azusa and signed up as agents of The Ministry of Peculiarities to investigate the persistence of spirits in the ancestral Hope home plagued by untimely (and, need we say, frequently suspicious if not violent) deaths. This was an unusually well done escape room with 4 rooms, 2 actors, and an interesting and complex plot complete with an “unreliable narrator” character interacting most frequently with us and voice recordings of other characters played as clues for us, cued by what we were doing or saying. Very impressive and a lot of fun. It really did make you appreciate the escape room as art form. More immersive than a video game, more puzzling than (most) theater.

Finally

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Anywhere you visit, it’s always impossible to do or see everything worth seeing or doing and often it’s the unexpected detour you take that ends up being the most memorable. Of course, Dodger Stadium is none of that. But, rolling down the window to snap this picture in line for a Covid test seemed a nice summary of what being on the road is all about, especially in such a constrained time. We take our pleasure in odd moments like this.

Yes, of course, it is a bit of a curse, living in interesting times. Yet, in testing us, it also grants us new perspectives and a new appreciation of things we take for granted . . .

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. . . like mushrooms,

especially ones we make together,

and, well, yes, who cares whether or not it’s a mushroom.

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Even in a pandemic, love will have its way,

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nature is still nature (looking best at dawn and dusk),

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and we’ll enjoy time with those we care about

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and remember those we’ve lost.

A Family Connection

We flew down to El Paso in early January to drop in on Amanda’s cousins, John and Gemariah, and give Jim a chance to experience that little wedge of westernmost Texas pushed up against the border and Juarez, surrounded by New Mexico, lots of mountain and the passes through the high desert landscape that give the place its name. Cactus is at the heart of the family story and was the family business with a client list that included J. Edgar Hoover (back in the day).

We stuck our heads in a little down at the heels and nearly empty at noontime restaurant in a pilgrimage to see granddad’s fireplace, the one featured in a story in National Geographic (November, 1951), and snapped a hasty photo. No one seemed to even notice we were there.

The 192 rock specimens making up the fireplace came from grandad’s friends and fellow collectors and include large pieces of petrified wood to frame the fireplace, plus Indian artifacts, fossilized dinosaur vertebrae, mastodon tusks, clams, snails and oysters, then onyx, agate, and smithsonite, as well as a chunk of gold ore from the Homestake Mine of South Dakota. Sadly, cousin John could be right that the rocks in the fireplace are worth more than the property itself. National Geographic states that the photo was taken in the living room, but family lore says it was the gas station/shop and that the house has long since been demolished. Everything has changed since that first half of the 20th century and every few years El Paso becomes, once again, almost unrecognizable.

The Wider View

If you look very carefully, you may be able to make out a large “X” in the distance. It’s La Equis (the “X”) over in Juarez. It symbolizes the merging of the Aztec and Spanish civilizations in Mexico which was personified in Benito Juarez, the first president with Aztec heritage for whom the city was named and who was also the leader who drove the French puppet Maximilian from a Napoleon III created Mexican throne. Juarez was admired and supported by Abraham Lincoln, who had voted against the war in which the US seized pretty much half of Mexico, establishing the Rio Grande as the border in 1848. When massive flooding altered the course of the river in 1864 a long running dispute was opened over where the border should be. A tamed river and 100 years of talking resulted in a treaty that was finally concluded by JFK and signed by LBJ. Unlike the relatively relaxed back and forth over in San Diego/Tijuana, the current level of violence in Juarez kept us from venturing across.

Digging Deeper

The archeology museum reconnected us to the broader picture of pre-Columbian America before this area was known as El Paso del Norte and the Spanish had followed the natural route across the Rio Grande and through the mountains to New Mexico. The native peoples had used the same natural routes, likely for thousands of years, so that Pueblo culture has been around El Paso for a long time.

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As the only visitors (literally) in the museum on a January morning, we benefited from what we came to experience as the uncanny warmth and friendliness of everyone we encountered in El Paso. The museum attendant directed us to what we had assumed to be only an auditorium but which housed drawer after drawer of carefully labeled Native American (including everyone from the Iroquois to the Maya) beadwork, moccasins, war clubs, axe heads and small bits of pottery such as these, all of which was great fun to browse through.

The Mission Trail

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Coming from the Anglo-centric northeast (where we’ve even forgotten that New York started life as New Amsterdam), we’re largely oblivious to the Spanish heritage in the United States which runs long and deep and have had no awareness at all, for instance, that credit for the first cross-cultural Thanksgiving could just as easily go to the Spanish under Don Juan de Oñate and the Manso Indians near present day San Elizario where Oñate had called a rest before crossing the Rio Grande as he extended the Camino Real from Mexico City to Santa Fe a quarter century before the happening at Plymouth between the English and the Wampanoag. Reminds us of that song from Hamilton: “Who Lives, Who Dies, Who Tells Your Story.” Of course, the history of the Spanish and the Native Americans is no more pretty than that in the world of the English.

By 1680, the various tribes of Pueblo Indians up the road had had their fill of the Spanish and collaborated to stage the Pueblo Revolt or Popé’s Rebellion under the leadership of the mysterious Popé, who united all the Pueblos except the Piro and Tigua. Fleeing for their lives, almost 2000 Spaniards together with hundreds of Tigua and Piro Indians headed south and crossed over the Rio Grande to safety, establishing new settlements at Socorro (Tigua) and Ysleta (Piro). After the wandering river finally settled down under the hand of man, the settlements ended up being north of the river and in what’s now the USA. Suffering numerous floods and fires, the existing look of the Ysleta Mission is from 1907. The Tiguas established the Ysleta del Sur Pueblo in 1682 which continues to be the heart of the community. The Spanish had reconquered New Mexico in 1692.

Periodic flooding was slightly more kind to the Piro Indians at Socorro and their current edifice dates from 1843, although it’s believed that the decorative beams (“vigas”) and other roof elements were salvaged from the original 1691 structure.

The chapel at the San Elizario Presidio has a different story, starting out as a military fort in 1789 complete with a chapel to serve the soldiers and their families (destroyed in the flood of 1829). A community developed around this, evolving into a farming community and the first county seat for El Paso County. The current chapel was completed in 1882. A 1935 fire prompted the interior modifications to cover the fire damage: the pressed-tin ceiling and boxed-in support columns.

A Folk Art Tribute: La Casa de Azucar

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Rufino Loya got up from his chair by the house and came out to talk with us. We had come to admire his work of 25 years that surrounds his house just off the highway. It’s inspired, he told us, by his village in Mexico. Everything was crafted by him by hand, each tiny ball of concrete rolled between his palms, then painted. Even the sidewalks are decorated. That’s where we saw the “El Paso Strong” tribute added after the recent mass shooting – painted on the sidewalk. He’s no longer fabricating anything more, just continually refreshing the paint and talking with the steady stream of visitors drawn by what turned out to be a surprisingly cohesive or coherent or what have you folk art tribute to El Paso. For us, it was only the eyes that were a bit too intense, especially on the angels. We were glad we stopped by to talk with Mr. Loya and experience what he created. La Casa de Azucar. “Sugar House,” because people have told him that it looks like a decorated cake. Hmm. Perhaps.

The Magoffin Home

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The Magoffin family settled in El Paso when it was already a polyglot borderland community of but 700 souls making a go of it between worlds. At Christmas time they placed a menorah on the mantel to make sure their Jewish neighbors felt comfortable. (With that sensibility, it’s not surprising that they contributed more than their share of mayors to the city.) Built in 1875, the Magoffin Home is an adobe building and an exceptional example of Territorial architecture. The key disadvantage of adobe as a building material is, of course, that it melts in water, making it important to keep water away from the structure and to avoid floods at all costs (witness the fate of those missions). That’s why the rainspouts extend so far out. And, yes, it is adobe. Those lines in the exterior wall are just for show and to make it look like it’s not adobe. The Magoffins were wealthy enough to afford pretension.

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The house stayed in the family into the 20th century when it was acquired by the State of Texas. The interior is remarkably well furnished with family pieces and due to the lucky break of having flourished after the invention of photography so that little authentic touches such as the blowfish hanging from the chandelier (photo lower left) could help bring the place to life.

Bhutan on the Rio Grande

Among the surprises El Paso has to offer is its relationship with the Kingdom of Bhutan. The campus of the University of Texas at El Paso (UTEP) has been built in a Bhutanese architectural style, complete with the only Bhutanese parking garage in the world. Despite the considerable differences in climate it looks very nice in its adopted home of the high desert.

The Crown Jewel of the UTEP campus, however, is the Lhakhang, a gift of the Kingdom to the people of the United States for a Smithsonian Folklife Festival in 2008 that was moved to UTEP in 2015, handcrafted on-site in Washington by Bhutanese craftsmen and monks.

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With a population roughly the size of El Paso (700,000 ish), Bhutan has gone all in on its partnership, with about 40 Bhutanese students among the UTEP student body.

It’s All About the Desert

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The great loop taking us from and back to Grand Junction, Colorado, and down through the Colorado Plateau and the Four Corners region also led us through the National Parks more known for devastating scenery than for dabbling in the human history of our continent. We revisited most of the itinerary Amanda and Ken followed last year, but with some different twists and in cooler weather. We also came across the delightfully unexpected, like these cattle in southern Utah being herded down a road we had begun to marvel at for the total lack of traffic. (Guess the locals knew.)

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Throughout our trip we were fortunate to also see lots of rabbits, lizards and turkeys. Plus, those wild mustangs in Canyon de Chelly.

Canyonlands National Park

But, this is why people come to the National Parks on the Colorado Plateau!

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Grand Canyon National Park

Speaking of spectacular cinematic views, the Grand Canyon has long been the “must see” of the National Parks. The lore of our National Parks is deeply ingrained in the place.

Mary Colter (born 1869) was given some Sioux drawings (one, a piece of ledger art) as a child, sparking a life long and intent fascination with Native Americans and their art. She became first an interior designer and then chief architect for the Fred Harvey Company (restaurants and lodgings) and the Santa Fe Railroad. In the early years of the Grand Canyon, these were the developers who began bringing tourists in to the Canyon. Colter’s interest in Native Americans comes through strongly in her architecture and design.

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Grand Canyon National Park can seem too groomed, tamed, with nature subdued for our contemplation, but it is spectacular scenery not to be missed. It also captures that age of Mary Colter, that wonderful early 20th century sensibility, the era of an evening stroll in your Sunday best on the seaside boardwalk to see and be seen, of the streetcar companies building amusement parks in the countryside at the end of their rail lines. Or, better yet, a retreat for the well-heeled to venture by train and stagecoach and be amazed at what nature hath wrought over millions of years.

Zion National Park

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Sometimes Zion does feel like the Promised Land. For one thing, there are plenty of options for hiking in the dazzling landscape and the roads are closed to cars with a shuttle bus system conveying gawkers and hikers throughout the park.

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Bryce Canyon National Park

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Hoodoos are the defining feature of Bryce Canyon National Park. You can just look or you can go in amongst them. We trooped along the Queen’s Garden trail and the Navajo Loop and were stunned by the extravagance of it all.

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Capitol Reef National Park

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If you visit the National Parks on the Colorado Plateau, it’s hard to avoid geology. It’s a wrinkle or a fold in the earth’s crust that defines the oddly named Capitol Reef (something about easterners, familiarity with the ocean, and the grandeur of capitol buildings, or something like that). In any case, it’s some odd looking combinations of rocks out there, let us assure you.

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Established as a National Monument in 1937 and a National Park in 1971, one of the things that makes Capitol Reef special is the maintenance of the small 1880s Mormon settlement of Fruita by the Park Service. There are orchards, the Gifford homestead (selling delicious little pies), a schoolhouse and blacksmith shop harkening back to pioneer days along the Fremont River. In the transition to becoming a National Park, the Giffords were bought out. It must have been hard to leave such a beautiful spot.

Arches National Park

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They claim there are 2000 arches or natural bridges within Arches National Park. That’s not hard to believe. And, it’s funny how something so unique and unusual in nature can seem commonplace when you’re in the midst of such a crazy concentration of it. But, water has continued to do its work here and is continuing to do so. There’s a great photo at the beginning of the walk out to the one that’s at the top right in this montage showing that in 1930 the opening was half as big as it is now. In fact, throughout our trip we kept seeing those precariously balanced enormous pieces of rock that look like they’re about to break loose. Sometimes they do, like that stupendous piece of cliff that took out some of the back part of Pueblo Bonito down in Chaco Canyon. Fortunately, those folks had moved out over 700 years ago.

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For the last hike of our trip, we decided to take on a hike that would take us by Sand Dune Arch and then through Broken Arch (it isn’t). We had to dump even more sand out of our hiking shoes than usual (which was a lot).

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