Greek civilization was a culture, not a geography, and Sicily was where much of that culture was found, although the Greeks typically displaced non-Greek people who were already there. Today, there is a lot to see that has been unearthed from those times and from when Sicily was the granary of the Roman Empire, as well as a tremendous wealth of architecture from medieval times.
SEGESTA
Here’s an amphitheater in Segesta, originally a city founded by the non-Greek Elymian people but taken over by Greeks. We enjoyed the impromptu serenade by a group of school children.
And, the temple was just down the hill, actually really far down the hill. We gave ourselves the luxury of taking the shuttle bus up the hill and then down again. (This photo was taken with our biggest telephoto lens.)
Yes, indeed, those ancient Mediterranean civilizations tended to build in the most inaccessible locations. They were generally well out of harms way on the top of mountains so as to defend from attack. Those were tough times! Fortunately, we can now take things like cable cars to make the climb less arduous. This one goes from the resort town of Trapani up to the town of Erice. The watery fields by the sea are for processing sea salt.
ERICE
One amazing place after another.
This Norman Castle was built on the location of the Temple of Venus reputedly founded by Aeneas and where animals simply walked up to be sacrificed. (That last one may be a stretch.)
This 3rd to 4th century BC wall at the Temple of Venus site is said by tradition to have been built by Dedalus, the builder of the labyrinth on Crete to contain the Minotaur. We’re not sure how to fact check that one either.
Founded by the Elymians, then settled by the Phoenicians and then the Greeks, Erice is now mostly a Medieval town. It also has a little pastry shop the B&B owner from Palermo sent us to where they make a Genovese filled with creme fraisch after a recipe from the nuns and only sold there. It was worth the search. Delicious.
SELINUNTE
This is the largest archeological site in Europe. Selinunte was a Greek colony founded in the late 7th century BC according to Thucydides.
What’s remarkable are the piles upon piles – vast areas – of what looks like rubble and is what has been unearthed in recent centuries, only for archeologists to work out what it was and to reassemble portions of it for us to admire and wonder at the scope and scale of the structures that once stood on the landscape and formed cities for these peoples to live in.
Selinunte had been a relatively large city of about 30,000 free people, plus slaves. There were five temples centered on an Acropolis.
They were in constant conflict with the Elymians of Segesta until Selinunte was sacked by Carthage in the 4th century BC when they didn’t choose sides wisely.
And, never regained their stature or strength.
AGRIGENTO
Agrigento was another large Greek city of around 100,000 to 200,000 people founded in 580 BC that tried to stay out of the conflict between Athens and Syracuse. However, they didn’t avoid sack by Carthage in 406 BC or getting the worst of it when Carthage and Rome went at it in the First Punic War when Rome enslaved all the inhabitants around 260 BC. (Then, back to Carthage, then Rome, until their citizens were given Roman citizenship after the death of Julius Caesar in 44 BC. Phew, too much history!)
The reassembled temples were truly monumental.
And, again, the piles of rubble spoke to the archeological work still to be done.
Meanwhile, in the Archeological Museum in Agrigento there is an impressive collection of artifact with ample English language signage. Here’s a 7th Century BC ceramic piece notable for both for being in a style established on Rhodes and for the central motif. It’s the triquetra or triskeles, a symbol evoking Sicily because the island is essentially triangular in shape with three substantial capes.
A few segments of one of these enormous human figures is laying on the ground at the archeological park, difficult to decipher in the field.
With an imposing head.
All of which becomes a lot clearer when you see the model helpfully provided by the museum.
PIAZZA ARMERINA
Fast forward to the Middle Ages. 11th Century. There are a lot of medieval towns in Sicily, most of them with a certain charm, after you navigate impossible roads and wait for the sheep to be safely crossed by the very alert and attentive sheepdogs. This little cathedral was the reward as seen from the balcony to our room on the cathedral square.
Down here someplace was the restaurant people liked on TripAdvisor.
A terrific place for an overnight and an early start the next day.
VILLA ROMANA DEL CASALE
Nothing quite prepares you for the Villa Romana del Casale. Thanks to a mudslide long ago, the villa of a very important Roman figure has been remarkably well preserved. It’s what Vesuvius did for Pompeii, but Pompeii was a city with ordinary people and a few wealthy ones. The villa exudes power and position. We don’t know who owned it, but this appears to be the reception room where he received people when exercising that power.
The courtyard is imposing.
But, it’s the mosaics,
The mosaics on every theme
Decorating every room that most impress.
This one of women athletes being rewarded for their prowess is very unique and popular.
The subject matters go on and on.
Even the utilitarian servant’s areas are decorated, although “only” in beautiful geometric patterns.
In large rooms and small.
Then there is what is beneath. Here are the works for the heated baths.
And, finally, a nicely decorated lavatory for the master’s family.
SYRACUSE
Cicero referred to Syracuse as the greatest and most beautiful of the Greek cities. It was certainly one of the most powerful cities of the Mediterranean world, along with Athens and Carthage, and was the equal of Athens in size. It was the home of Archimedes.
Its amphitheater was not built into a hillside, but carved, and would allow 16,000 people to enjoy performances. It’s where Aeschylus sat to enjoy the last of his plays.
Dionysius kept prisoners here in a cave now known as the “Dionysius Nose” where he could eavesdrop on their conversations through a small opening at the top.
When the Romans took over, they constructed an arena for their entertainment.
When Christians came to power and wanted a cathedral, it was natural to simply take over a temple and remodel it to current standards. (Notice the columns)
Inside.
And out. Actually, having visited countless cathedrals over the years, the Syracuse cathedral is now our favorite for its intimacy, beauty and human warmth. We respected the “no photos” admonition in the most beautiful side chapel. Notice the Virgin Mary in the center looking over the plaza, placed where Athena stood when it was her temple. We also enjoyed the atmosphere of the old part of the city and the wonderful gelato just across from the cathedral.
TAORMINA
The entrance to our hotel in Taormina gives some idea of where the town is situated – the town, that is. Of course, our hotel was also a challenge. We asked the hotel staff to drive the car back up the ramp when we departed.
At least we didn’t have a big climb to get to the ruins. Not only is the Taormina amphitheater the second largest in Sicily (after Syracuse), performances still take place there. You may remember that they recently hosted the G7, although that must have been a logistical and transportation nightmare.
It is, however, a beautiful view.
And a charming, although really expensive, town.
With a rather quirky cathedral square.